📖 Guides & tips31 August 20266 min read

Beer mortar STL (3D printing): print it yourself or buy it?

Yes, free beer-mortar STL files exist. But is 3D-printing one a good idea? Cost, sturdiness, pitfalls — and when it's better to just buy it.

By Maxence Renault

Yes, free beer-mortar STL files exist (on MakerWorld, Cults3D or Printables) and you can 3D-print one yourself. But a printed mortar is often fragile and imprecise: printing makes sense if you already own a printer and enjoy tinkering; otherwise, a ready-made beer mortar stays more reliable and clean on every shot.

Where to find a beer-mortar STL file?

Several makers have shared their model. The main 3D-printing libraries offer free or cheap versions, often tuned for 33 cl and 50 cl bottles:

MakerWorld — several “beer opener / mortar” models, including 33/50 cl calibrated versions.
Cults3D — dedicated beer-mortar designers and “beer STL files” collections.
Printables — community-rated “beer mortar” models.

So the raw material isn't the problem. The real question isn't where to find the STL, but whether printing produces an object worthy of the videos.

Is it hard to print correctly?

Harder than it looks. The beer mortar isn't a simple shell: the part that holds then releases the cap needs precise mechanical tolerance. Too tight and the cap won't launch; too loose and it won't fly straight. In PLA, the edges that take the impact wear down or crack, and print orientation changes everything. As a result, many makers go through several iterations before a clean shot.

Tight tolerances around the cap zone — the hardest thing to dial in.
Material: PLA is brittle under repeated impact; PETG or ABS hold up better but print less easily.
Orientation + supports: badly placed, they weaken the part or ruin the geometry.
Post-processing: deburring is essential so it doesn't scratch the bottle or hurt you.

How much does it really cost, and how long?

The filament for one mortar costs little (often €1–3 of material), but the real cost includes the printer, the print hours (several per part), the failures, and your tuning time. If you already print for fun, it's nearly free and a nice project. If you'd have to buy a printer “just for this,” the maths flips heavily.

Safety and hygiene: two points not to overlook

A 3D-printed part has porous layers that are hard to clean, which isn't ideal for an object in contact with the cap and the bottle neck. And like any mortar, the cap is a small projectile: deburred edges, aim upward, never at anyone. A finished product is smoothed, checked and built for this use.

Print or buy: who is each for?

Print if you already own a printer, enjoy iterating, and see it as a maker project (hats off, that's the fun of 3D).
Buy if you want it to work first try, a sturdy object that lasts, or if it's a gift — handing over an STL file is a tougher sell.
When in doubt: the price of a ready-made mortar is close to the real cost (material + time + failures) of a successful print.

Want to compare it with other fun openers? See the openers comparison, or read why the “IKEA rocket bottle opener” doesn't exist.

Don't fancy failing 3 prints before the right shot?

See the ready-made mortar

Frequently asked questions

Is there a free beer-mortar STL file?

Yes. Several makers have shared free or cheap models on MakerWorld, Cults3D and Printables, often tuned for 33 cl and 50 cl bottles. The challenge isn't finding the file, but getting a print precise enough for the cap to launch straight.

Is a 3D-printed beer mortar sturdy?

So-so. In PLA, the impact edges wear down or crack with repeated use. PETG or ABS hold up better but are trickier to print. A mortar made in reinforced ABS and tested for this use stays more reliable over time.

Is it better to print or buy a beer mortar?

Print if you already own a printer and like tinkering. Buy if you want it to work first try, a durable object, or as a gift. The price of a ready-made model is often close to the real cost of a successful print (material + time + failures).

Which material should you use to print a beer mortar?

Avoid pure PLA for repeated use (too brittle on impact). PETG is a good strength/ease compromise; ABS is stronger but needs an enclosure and good ventilation. Remember to deburr the contact zone so it doesn't scratch the bottle.